New heights for haute couture
Thursday, January 26th, 2012More Images » At Dior, lush, full skirts harkened back to 1947, although some were transparent.Photograph by: PASCAL LE SEGRETAIN ?GETTY IMAGES, The Gazette
He has created sets featuring a merry-go-round of giant pearls and bows, an underwater fantasyland and a starry night at Place Vendôme, all inside the Grand Palais. But haute couture soared to new heights at the Paris shows for spring and summer this week as Chanel maestro Karl Lagerfeld constructed a 250-seat aircraft with a 50-metre runway and fluffy clouds projected overhead on which to present an all-blue collection. And the clothes were wearable: boat-necked suits, day dresses with dropped waists, subtly embroidered evening frocks.
Armani Privé, Versace Atelier, Jean Paul Gaultier and Dior also hit the catwalk this week, showing many styles perhaps destined for the Oscar red carpet. Dior quelled anticipation that a successor to disgraced John Galliano was to be named soon. It appears that Bill Gaytte, with good reviews for this second haute couture effort, will remain in place for the time being.
Here are excerpts of reviews.
Chanel: “But forget the plane. What truly dazzled were the clothes, all in blue. Mr. Lagerfeld said there were more 150 different shades of blue in the collection, which consisted of about 60 outfits. There were powder and sky blues, warm violet blues, electric and royal blues, midnight and navy.” Cathy Horyn, New York Times
“The chic severity of the short dresses, which were suffused in couture details and quintessentially Chanel, was offset by hairstyles that looked like they had been caught in an engine tailspin.” Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune.
Jean Paul Gaultier: “The late pop singer’s (Amy Winehouse) musical spirit and bad girl fashion sense were all over the runway. ‘No, no, no,’ sang the four male Afro-American a cappella singers who kicked off the show, using Winehouse’s husky battle cry ‘Rehab’ as a backdrop to 1950s and ’60s-inspired looks. Sporting pink, red, blonde and black beehives, the leggy models with thick cat-eye eyeliner sported lots of lace, sequins, peeka-boo skin – and even cigarettes.” Alexandria Sage, Reuters
Dior: After a rigorous, correct and undeniably “Dior” show, this question must be asked: Is the elusive successor on the doorstep?
In every sense, this show on the first day of the brief couture season was Dior Light. There was not much personality or charm, yet a careful rendition of the codes of the house, including houndstooth check created with embroidered beading. The lush, full skirts, which shocked the world in 1947, would have given those postwar women the vapors if the skirts had shifted transparently over the legs, as in this 2012 summer show. Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune
Atelier Versace: With its highsparkle, sexy pizzazz, this collection had two primary targets: the Hollywood awards set (Versace’s most recent coup was Angelina Jolie at the Golden Globes) and a solid, growing client base in Russia, Hong Kong and “of, course, the Middle East.” Women’s Wear Daily
“Dazzling decadence was the watchword, with strips of metal plated with real gold circling the dresses like luxury body armour, around a shoulder, across the back or down the side of the ribs.” Agence France-Presse
Armani Privé: “The first cheers went to the U.S. actress Jessica Chastain, who found out live during the show she was nominated for an Oscar as best actress in a second role for The Help. Did Chastain spot something to wear up the red carpet next month? Quite possibly – if she is planning to go in green: the couture collection sent out by Armani Privé feted vivid greens in all their glory, from aniseed to apple, weaving in a subtle reptilian-theme.” AFP
Elie Saab: “Which one to choose for the red carpet? All eyes were on Oscar contender Bérénice Bejo, co-star of the French silent movie The Artist, as she sat front row. The Lebanese designer – a favourite of the red-carpet crowd – sent out a roll-call of evanescent gowns fit for an ‘empress’, all in shimmering, semi-sheer layers of white and gentle pastels. Asked after the show if she was on the lookout for a dress to wear down the Oscar red carpet – and if she would be wearing Saab – Bejo replied only with a smile, but she praised the collection as ‘wearable.”‘ AFP
SPRING COLOUR BLASTS
Jolts of orange and electric yellow are hitting the shops now, with pastels on the horizon.
View a gallery of spring runway trends at montrealgazette.com/style
the ultimate in fashion
Haute couture week wrapped Wednesday and we’ve got the best looks from Chanel, Gaultier, Armani and more picked out for your perusal. montrealgazette.com/style
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